My buddy John, (husband of Kate- to know more see, Pirate Hunts for Cool People on the Island) is a very smart guy. He took all the work out of learning to surf and let me get hooked on the feeling of ridding waves. He was kind enough to stand in the freezing water and literately push me into oncoming waves, two days in a row for a total of about three hours. I baked him a bread.
Day one was amazing. I caught about 10-12 waves and really stated to get the hang of it. Day two I was a little on the sick side (probably from being in the water when outside tempts were around 11-15 degrees). I caught only about 3 or 4 waves and called it a day.
Two days was enough for me to realize how different each day and even each wave can be. Some of you may roll your eyes at this but I found it to be a lot like minimal techno. A lot of repetition but its the subtleties that force you to change in a challenging sort of way. You really have to listen to the wave, change your body (footing, weight, speed, ...) in order to get the most out of each ride. It's like a little mini talk with the wave- except I have to shut up and listen before I can react. Very challenging I tell yah! ;) Lots of fun, even when I was:
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